Car 2013

1. Park your car on level ground and allow its engine to cool for at least three to five hours.
2. Jack the car up and place it on axle stands.
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
4. Remove the cap from the top of the radiator.
5. Place the drain pan underneath the blue plastic drain plug, found at the bottom of the radiator. Remove the plug with a wrench or spanner.
6. Drain the fluid until it stops. If it contains any debris or metal flakes, you will need a professional to inspect your radiator.
7. Drain the coolant into a bottle, seal it, and dispose of it at an appropriate recycling facility.
8. Inspect the radiator cap for dry rot or wear and tear. Replace it with a new cap if necessary.
9. Flush cold water through the radiator.
10. Fill the radiator with water to help remove the remaining antifreeze.
11. Replace the radiator cap and turn on the engine for five minutes.
12. Turn off the engine and allow it to cool.
13. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until the water is clear.
14. Pour the flushing agent into your radiator. Repeat steps 11 and 12, and then drain the flushing agent.
15. Replace the plug once all of the coolant is emptied out of the radiator. Tighten to 2 to 3 Nm (18 to 27 inch pounds).
16. Remove the small plastic bleed screw to the right of the radiator cap. Using a large funnel in the expansion tank, slowly fill the car with new liquid--50 percent coolant, 50 percent distilled water. Restart the car engine for five minutes to open the thermostat.
17. Add more antifreeze or coolant until the radiator is full. Screw the cap back on the radiator.
18. Bleed the air out of the expansion tank on the side of the radiator. Otherwise you will have a separate, external expansion tank which is self-bleeding. With the bleed screw removed, fill the expansion tank until fluid begins coming out of the bleed screw.
19. Run the engine until it reaches its operating temperature. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. Top up the coolant in the expansion tank to the appropriate level, if necessary.

1. Insert the key into the ignition. Leave the key in the Off position.
2. Press the odometer button. Hold the button down. Turn the key to the Acc position.
3. Release the odometer button after reset appears on the display.
4. Press and hold the odometer button until reset flashes in the display. Release the button.
5. Press and release the odometer button. END SIA appears in the display for two seconds, indicating the reset was successful.

1. Turn off the A4. Ensure that the parking brake is on and that the gear selector is in Park.
2. Open the trunk by either pulling on the trunk release button beneath the steering wheel or by pressing the trunk release button on your key fob if you have that option.
3. Locate the oval panel on the side of the trunk wall. Pry the panel off with a flathead screwdriver, using gentle pressure to avoid cracking the plastic of the trunk. There will be a bolt head inside the cavity that was covered by the plastic panel.
4. Loosen the bolt inside the cavity. This will release the lens cover on the brake light on the rear of your Audi. Be prepared to catch the lens, to prevent scratching the lens or the rear paint. If the lens cover does not come off on its own, you can pry it off gently with a flathead screwdriver. Be gentle to avoid damaging the paint or cracking the lens.
5. Remove the light bulb from the electrical harness by hand. The bulb just plugs into the port--no special tools are necessary. Place the lens cover back on the tail light. While holding the lens up, thread the bolt back into the cavity by hand until it catches in the grooves on the lens backing. Tighten the lens down with a wrench, until the lens cover will no longer wiggle if you push on it.
6. Repeat this process for the other tail light. Turn the car back on and test the brake lights by pressing down on the brakes while someone else looks for the brake lights to signal.

SRT has launched a limited number of 2014 VIPER SRT TA “Time Attack", to be presented later this month in New York.

Available from the third quarter, the 2014 VIPER SRT TA "Time Attack" is limited to only 33 units, all of which take as exterior paint color "Orange Crusher". Its price is $ 120,500, which makes it more expensive than the standard Viper ($ 102,500), but cheaper than the Viper GTS ($ 125,000).

It features a 8.4-liter V10 engine with 640 horsepower (477 kW) and 814 Nm (600 lb-ft) of torque, but what differentiates this variant is tuned suspension Bilstein, DampTronic developed system for use in the track.

While the standard model has structural aluminum X-Brace, the benefits of 2014 VIPER SRT “Time Attack" is that it comes with a carbon fiber brace lighter.

He has also received greater Brembo brake kit and Sidewinder II wheels with Pirelli P Zero Corsa. The new package brings aerodynamic front splitter, rear spoiler and a rear implement. Instead of the logos, the 2014 VIPER SRT TA "Time Attack" have stickers indicating that it has taken some of the weight. Speaking of weight, SRT mention tips the scales at 1518 kg car. As a reminder, the Viper weighs 1521 kg basis, while GTS variant amounts to 1,530 kg.

The interior remains the same, with the exception of the new seam as Orange Crusher on the seats, center console, and instrument panel, pull the brake, console, shift manager and boot, doors and steering wheel.

1. Start your BMW and activate the Bluetooth on your cell phone. When the car is turned on, it is in pairing mode and will look for a cell phone.
2. Select Bluetooth on your phones Bluetooth connections menu. This option may be called Connections and varies with the type of phone you own. Select the option that lets your phone search for Bluetooth devices. Consult your phones owners manual for specific instructions on how to complete this step.
3. Wait for your phone to locate your BMW. When it finds your BMW, you will see BMW followed by five numbers, which are the last five digits of your BMWs VIN number. Select the confirmation option when your phone asks you if you want it to sync with the vehicle.
4. Enter the Passkey number when your phone prompts you. You can find the passkey inside the booklet that includes your owners manual. The passkey is four digits and will be listed after PK, the abbreviation for passkey. You have about 20 seconds to enter the passkey on your phone before the sync process ends. If the sync is successful, you will see Loading Phonebook flashing on your radios display screen. Your phonebooks contacts will load to your radio where you can access them. It could take a few minutes for your contacts to transfer.

Taking the Old Brakes Off
1. Empty the brake fluid from the vehicle. The fluid is corrosive and can cause serious problems if it starts to leak unexpectedly.
2. Use a breaker bar to loosen the wheel bolts on the first wheel. Do notremove them yet.
3. Jack up the front of the vehicle, using jack stands to help support the axle and frame
4. Loosen the rotor-retaining screw on either side of the BMW. Do not remove them yet.
5. Remove the retaining clip with a flat-head screwdriver and set it aside.
6. Remove the protective caps over the caliper guide bolts and then remove the bolts themselves. Set them all aside nearby.
7. Remove the caliper, using a c-clamp to depress the piston. (Calipers in good condition shouldnt present any problems, but older ones may be difficult because the rotors are worn.) Push the piston back into the caliper when you are done.
8. Loosen the 16mm bolts while holding the caliper carrier to the steering knuckle, then remove the carrier from the knuckle. Clean the carrier with brake cleaner if it is dirty.
9. Using a dead-blow hammer, strike the rotor once at the 3 oclock position, once at the 9 oclock position, once at the 6 oclock position and once at the 12 oclock position, in that order. It should come loose and allow you to remove it. Dont use anything but a dead-blow hammer, or you may damage the rotor.
10. Use brake cleaner and a cleaning pad to get rid of the old anti-seize compound on the hub. Then apply new anti-seize to the hub. The coating should be very thin; make sure you get the threads of the bolt holes as well, as the face of the hub.
Putting the New Brakes On
11. Take the new rotor by the center (not the edges) and thread it onto the hub. You may wish to clean any preservative oils off the rotor and add some anti-seize before you do this, but it isnt necessary. Make sure its tight: the torque specs should be 12 ft*lbs.
12. Clean the carrier bracket in an appropriate wash basin, then spray it with brake cleaner and allow it to dry.
13. Reattach the caliper carrier bracket. The bolts need to be torqued to 81 ft*lbs.
14. Add a bit of grease to the lubrication points of the brake pads, and then insert them into the carrier. Its usually best to insert the outer pad first.
15. Reinstall the caliper. The retracted piston should allow it to fit into place without a problem.
16. Clean the caliper guide pins with brake cleaner and then reinsert them into their positions.
17. Reattach the guide bolt caps and the retaining clip.
18. Repeat the entire process with the other three wheels.
19. Place new brake fluid in the BMW and then lower the car off the jacks.

Remove Worn Brakes
1. Loosen the bolts or lung nuts on the Mercedes 320 CLK wheels with a socket.
2. Raise the Mercedes 320 CLK coupe with a hydraulic pump or floor jack. Support the coupe with jack stands.
3. Remove the wheel and tire off the Mercedes.
4. Remove the old brake pads and retaining pins using a socket and ratchet.
5. Clean the brake caliper where the brakes usually sit. Inspect the brake caliper and dust cap for damage. Replace parts that have leaks or imperfections.
6. Inspect the disc brakes for deterioration.
7. Review the master cylinder reservoir to check the level of brake fluid. Siphon the fluid until the reservoir is at half capacity.
8. Use a c-clamp to apply pressure on the brake caliper.
Install New Brakes
9. Place the dust cap, if it appears worn. Resurface or replace the rotor, if its damaged. Replace the rubber seal near the guide if worn.
10. Put the new brake pads, retaining springs and retaining pins on the brake caliper.
11. Refill the brake fluid levels in the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Pump the brake pedals several times to accurately set the brake pads.
13. Put the wheels and tires back on the 320 CLK.
14. Lower the Mercedes 320 CLK back to the ground. Ensure the brake pedal feels firm before driving the car.

1. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the first position. This is where the ignition comes on, but the engine does not start. The lights on the dash should illuminate and the FSS display will turn on.
2. Press the R button twice. This is the button located directly beneath the FSS display, which is also marked mileage. The number of days and miles remaining on the current service interval will show on the screen.
3. Turn the key back to the off position. Then, hold down the R button and turn the key back to the same position. Continue holding the button until a beeping sound is heard. The system has now been reset and you may release the button.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the II position without starting the engine.
2. Press the radio power button to turn it on. Wait for CODE to appear on the radio display.
3. Press the radio station preset buttons to enter the security code. The radio turns off and resets when the last digit of the code is entered.
4. Turn the radio on. The radio now functions normally.

1. Open the hood and examine the area behind the headlights or front turn signals. You should see where the wires go into the back of the bulbs.
2. Remove the cover for the headlight housing, if there is one. This will be held on either with snaps or a couple of Phillips-head screws.
3. On some models, such as the A4, you must remove the air intake duct on the passenger side to gain access to the bulb. This is held on with two Torx screws on top of the duct.
4. Remove the two or three screws that hold the top of the headlight housing in place. Loosen--but do not remove--the screws that hold the bottom into place.
5. Gently push the headlight forward to gain access to the bulbs.
6. Unclip the wire clip that holds the bulb into the housing, and pull out the bulb and harness.
7. Install the new bulb in the reverse of removal.
8. Open the trunk (on a sedan) or the hatch (on a wagon), and inspect the area behind the taillights and rear turn-signal housings. There will be a small, round plug in the back of the housing that conceals the screw for the housing.
9. Pry the housing cover out with a thin screwdriver, and remove the screw.
10. Pull the taillight housing away from the body of the car. You may have to move some of the rubber seal that goes over the housing to be able to pull it out.
11. Separate the panel that holds the bulbs from the back of the housing.
12. Press down gently on the bulb, and turn the bulb to release it.
13. Install the new bulb and replace the pieces in the reverse of removal.

1. Open the hood and remove both T25 Torx screws found at the top of the headlights. This is done from outside of the vehicle.
2. Loosen the two T25 Torx screws found on each side of the headlights. To get a better reach of the screws, attach an extension to the screwdriver.
3. Pull out the headlights and press the metal clips behind them in order to detach the headlights from the wiring.
4. Pull out the turn signal bulbs at the sides of the headlight units.
5. Pull out the headlight back covers and press the metals clips behind the bulbs to unplug the wiring. Slide out the xenon and high beam bulbs using a cloth to prevent them from getting smeared with oil from your skin.
6. Repeat the steps in reverse with the new xenon bulbs.

VCDS
1. Check if your Volkswagen Jetta has an onboard diagnostic system that is compatible with the Volkswagen Car Diagnostic System (VCDS). According to Ross-Tech, a diagnostic software manufacturer for European automobiles, VCDS will work with most Volkswagen and Audi models sold worldwide 1994 through 2010.
2. Activate the VCDS software on your computer. VCDS software only works on computers running Windows and that have serial or USB outlets.
3. Locate the VCDS cord outlet on your Volkswagen Jetta. The exact location will vary by model, but it should be under the front hood. If you have trouble finding it, consult your owners manual.
4. Follow the program instructions to receive a coded report on your cars diagnostics. Check what the codes mean in the programs instruction manual to determine what is the problem with your Jetta.
OBD-II
5. Find the on-board diagnostic (OBD) outlet on your Jetta. The OBD-II system has been installed in every model of Jetta since 1996 -- previous models used the OBD-I system. The exact location of the OBD-II outlet will vary by model, but it should be under the front hood. If you have trouble finding it, consult your owners manual.
6. Connect an OBD-II scanner to your car via the devices cord.
7. Turn the scanner on. Write down the codes it gives in the diagnostic report and check what the codes mean in the OBD-IIs instruction manual to determine which component is not functioning correctly in your Jetta.

1. Jack up on the front of your Audi A4 under the front jack point behind the radiator, using the floor jack.
2. Place jack stands under the front pinch welds of the vehicle and lower the Audi onto the stands.
3. Climb under the vehicle and disconnect the electrical connector from the oxygen sensor.
4. Unbolt the oxygen sensor from the exhaust using an O2 sensor socket and socket wrench.
5. Remove the sensor and thread the new sensor into the exhaust. Tighten the sensor using a socket wrench and O2 sensor socket.
6. Reconnect the electrical leads to the sensor.
7. Lower the A4 to the ground using the floor jack.

1. Remove the stock turbo-to-intercooler pressure tube by loosening the clamps that secure it to the silicone rubber connector on top of the engine. Slide the tube out of the connector and lay it off to one side so that you have easier access to the stock N75.
2. Identify the N75. The valve has a three-way fitting on the bottom, which has a 90-degree rubber elbow and corrugated vacuum line connected to one side and an angled, molded-rubber line secured with a hose clamp on the other. The corrugated line is clamped to the plastic intake tube just before the flex portion. Turn the N75 to expose the round top and the wiring harness attached there. Unplug the harness.
3. Grasp and remove the hose clamp on the bottom of the N75 where the short section of tube connects to the intake. Pull on the valve to release it. Cut the non-reusable hose clamps off the other two rubber lines using either a pair of wire cutters or a hobby-style rotary tool. Be careful not to nick the hoses.
4. Install the new N75J J valve in the exact orientation as the old N75, with the longer of the two side-facing fittings facing toward the intake tube. Use new hose clamps to replace the non-reusable units on the two previous hoses. Re-attach those two hoses, grasp the first hose clamp with pliers to release the pressure and slip the last fitting into it.
5. Slide the intercooler tube back into the rubber connector and tighten the hose clamp. Reconnect the wiring harness plug to your new N75J valve.

1. Open the hood and unplug the electrical connector running to the back of the headlight bulb that has burned out.
2. Pull off the dust cover from the back of the headlight housing with your fingers.
3. Rotate the headlight counterclockwise and pull it out of the back of the headlight housing.
4. Align the tabs on the replacement 9006 or 9005 headlight with the notches in the headlight housing. Twist the headlight, holding the headlight by the plastic collar, to lock the headlight into the housing.
5. Replace the dust cover and reconnect the headlight connector.

1. Remove the two bolts that secure the water outlet housing to the Audis engine with a socket and ratchet. With the bolts removed, lift the housing off the engine to expose the thermostat.
2. Note the positioning of the thermostat inside the engine. When you replace the thermostat, you must install it with the same positioning. Pull the old thermostat out of the engine and plug the hole with a shop rag.
3. Remove the old gasket from the engine with a wire brush or metal scraper. Do the same for the old gasket material stuck to the bottom of the water outlet housing.
4. Pull out the shop rag from the engine and install the new thermostat into position. Place a new gasket over the thermostat.
5. Place the water outlet housing onto the gasket and secure both to the engine with the socket and ratchet.

1. Write down the trailers gross trailer weight (GTW) from the data plate located on its frame. If you are going to load cargo into the trailer, then you must estimate its weight. Total up the GTW and the cargo weight and compare to your vehicles maximum towing capacity. If the total weight of the trailer plus cargo is less than the vehicles maximum towing capacity specified by the manufacturer, you can safely tow the trailer.
2. Connect the trailers receiver to the hitch on your CLK 320 and latch it in place. Lock the latch in place by inserting a hitch pin through the hole under the handle. The hitch ball must match the size of the trailers coupler.
3. Attach the female electrical receiver on the vehicle to the male electrical connector on the trailer. Test that all of the safety lights work before heading out on the road.
4. Slide the trailers left chain under the trailers receiver and connect it to the right side of the hitch. Connect the right chain to the left side of the hitch in the same manner.
5. Double check all connections and the safety lights. Fully inspect the trailer and your CLK 320 before starting out on your trip.

1. Charge the GPS device before using it for the first time. Depending on the brand of GPS you are using, it may be charged in different ways, such as through an electrical outlet or through a vehicle power cable. Many GPS brands also charge while connected to your computer via USB cable.
2. Mount the GPS in the Mercedes-Benz. Follow the specific directions that came with the GPS to properly mount the device. Most brands come with a suction-cup mount that adheres to the vehicles windshield. The GPS then attaches to the mount.
3. Configure the device by choosing options such as your home address, preferred language and whether you want to display measurement units in miles or kilometers.
4. Acquire a satellite signal for the GPS. Drive the vehicle away from tall trees, buildings, parking garages or hills to get the best signal. Finding a signal for the first time may take a few minutes. When this is done, the GPS is fully installed.

1. Turn your key over--with the BMW emblem facing away from you.
2. Press the button on the top-right side of the unit to release the integrated mechanical key. Pull the key out of the unit; this will expose the edge of the battery cover.
3. Flip open the battery cover with your fingernail. Pull the old battery out carefully.
4. Insert the new battery with the positive symbol (+) facing up. Close the battery cover. Re-insert the integrated mechanical key.

1. Sand the surface of the entire car with 220-grit sandpaper. This prepares the surface for painting, since paint will not adhere to an otherwise smooth surface for long. The 220-grit sandpaper also removes any scratches or nicks in the surface of the Mercedes.
2. Place masking tape and paper over any areas on the Mercedes that will not be painted. Cover the grill, lights, trim, mirrors, glass, tires and rims, door handles and locks. Wipe the surface with wax and grease remover and a towel to remove all fingerprints and other contaminants. The wax and grease remover evaporates quickly, so it does not need to be cleaned off.
3. Hold the spray can of primer six to eight inches from the surface of the car. Spray a coat of primer over the car, starting at the top, and work down. Use left and right motions when spraying, not up and down. Let the primer dry for 30 minutes.
4. Sand the primer surface using 600-grit sandpaper and water, and then again with 1,200-grit sandpaper and water. Keep the sandpaper soaking wet while sanding. The best way is to hold a running water hose above the sandpaper while sanding. The 600- and 1,200-grit sandpaper smooths the primer, and the water keeps any sanding buildup from sticking on the sandpaper and causing deep scratches.
5. Rinse the Mercedes with water and allow it to dry completely. Wipe the dry surface with wax and grease remover and a towel. Replace any masking tape or paper that has moved or become unusable from exposure to the water.
6. Spray the paint over the surface of the car using the same spraying techniques used with the primer. Begin at the top of the Mercedes and work down, using left and right strokes. Apply a total of three to five coats of paint, keeping them thin to avoid runs in the paint. Let the paint dry for 24 hours before handling the surface.