Car 2013

Remove Worn Brakes
1. Loosen the bolts or lung nuts on the Mercedes 320 CLK wheels with a socket.
2. Raise the Mercedes 320 CLK coupe with a hydraulic pump or floor jack. Support the coupe with jack stands.
3. Remove the wheel and tire off the Mercedes.
4. Remove the old brake pads and retaining pins using a socket and ratchet.
5. Clean the brake caliper where the brakes usually sit. Inspect the brake caliper and dust cap for damage. Replace parts that have leaks or imperfections.
6. Inspect the disc brakes for deterioration.
7. Review the master cylinder reservoir to check the level of brake fluid. Siphon the fluid until the reservoir is at half capacity.
8. Use a c-clamp to apply pressure on the brake caliper.
Install New Brakes
9. Place the dust cap, if it appears worn. Resurface or replace the rotor, if its damaged. Replace the rubber seal near the guide if worn.
10. Put the new brake pads, retaining springs and retaining pins on the brake caliper.
11. Refill the brake fluid levels in the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Pump the brake pedals several times to accurately set the brake pads.
13. Put the wheels and tires back on the 320 CLK.
14. Lower the Mercedes 320 CLK back to the ground. Ensure the brake pedal feels firm before driving the car.

1. Sit in the passenger seat. Unbolt the four bolts that hold the glove box in place around the perimeter of the opening using the 1/4-inch ratchet and socket and pull the glove box out of the dashboard.
2. Locate the cabin filter housing, which is on the right side of the compartment behind the glove box. Pull up the retaining clip at the base of the housing and remove the cover from the cabin filter housing. Pull the cabin filter out of the housing and dispose of it.
3. Install the replacement cabin filter into the housing and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the glove box into the dashboard using the 1/4-inch ratchet and socket.

1. Press the CLOCK key until the left side of the digital display shows Enter time.
2. Enter the time directly using the 1, 10, 100 and 1,000 key buttons.
3. Press the SET/RES key to lock in the new time for the on-board computer.

1. Lift the vehicle with the jack, until there is enough room to work comfortably underneath it.
2. Place the jack stands beneath the vehicle frame. The jack stands should be sitting level on the ground.
3. Place the oil drip pan under the vehicle, centered beneath the oil drain plug.
4. Remove the oil drain plug. It is located on the bottom of the engine on the oil pan.
5. Allow the old oil to drain, until the flow comes to a stop. This can take up to 30 minutes to complete.
6. Replace the drain plug. Be sure to tighten it, with the wrench, before proceeding.
7. Remove the tools, jack stands and oil drain pan, from under the vehicle.
8. Lower the Mercedes ML320, carefully, to the ground.
9. Raise the vehicle hood, and locate the oil filter casing, on the drivers side of the vehicle, near the front of the engine compartment.
10. Remove the cover from the oil filter casing.
11. Lift the old filter out with the wrench, and carefully remove it from the plastic stick it is attached to. Also, remove the old O-ring from the filter end of the stick, if it did not come off with the filter.
12. Install the new O-ring and filter on the stick.
13. Lower the filter assembly back into the filter casing, and replace the cover.
14. Remove the oil fill cover, and use the funnel to fill the engine with the new oil.
15. Replace the oil fill cover, and run the vehicle for several minutes. Check the oil level with the oil dipstick, and adjust the oil level, as needed.

1. Park the car in a relatively flat, even surface. Place in Park or first gear and shut the key all the way off.
2. Place wheel chock behind one or both rear tires. Using the breaking bar and appropriate-sized deep 1/2-inch drive socket, loosen lug nuts on the wheel youre removing to replace the outer tie rod end. Do not remove lug nuts; simply break them loose.
3. Raise the vehicle using the floor jack and place jack stand under frame of vehicle. Remove lug nuts and wheel from vehicle.
4. Determine the application of the outer tie rod end. Many vehicles have a wide variety of types. Most common will have a jam nut behind them threaded to the inner tie rod end and will bolt to the knuckle. Spray the jam nut with an oil-based penetrant spray such as WD 40 or PB Blaster and break free with the appropriate open end hand wrench. Jam nuts come in a variety of sizes, but the most common are 19, 21 and 22 mm. Just break the jam nut free of the outer tie rod. Do not loosen. You may have to use a hand torch and heat up the jam nut to get the metal of the nut to expand on the threads of the inner tie rod.
5. Remove cotter pin from the bottom of the castle nut that bolts the bottom of the outer tie rod end onto to the knuckle with needle-nosed pliers or a cutting tool. Some outer tie rod end applications offer a locking nut and not a castle nut. If thats the case, skip this step.
6. Use the 1/2-inch drive breaking bar and appropriate-sized deep well socket for a castle nut or a locking nut, and loosen and remove the nut.
7. Use a ball peen hammer to hammer the knuckle where the outer tie rod end bolts into. Hammering the bottom of the outer tie rod end may work, but you want to be careful not to mushroom the bottom of the pivot or it will not fit through the hole in the knuckle. Hitting the knuckle with force will usually break the tension free.
8. Unscrew the outer tie rod end after you free it from the knuckle. Again, a hand torch may be needed to heat up and expand the metal of the outer tie rod end from the threads of the inner tie rod. This is rare, but it can happen.
9. Measure the distance of the inner tie rod end up to and past the jam nut. You can opt to replace the jam nut if you want to, as most new outer tie rod ends come with replacement nut, or you can simply leave the old one on the inner tie rod end and screw the new outer tie rod end up to the old jam nut. If you want to replace the nut, replace the new outer tie rod end in a very close position to where the old one was. This is important to keep the alignment of the vehicle as close to the way it was before replacement.
10. Place outer tie rod end pivot into knuckle and tighten very tightly using breaking bar and socket. If the outer tie rod end has a rubber cup, you may have to place that on the pivot and cover the ball area with it. You will have to align the hole at the lower end of the pivot and the castle nut in order to allow the new cotter pin to slide through, if applicable. Place in cotter pin and bend over the bottom of the pivot. If its a locking nut, simply tighten.
11. Tighten the jam nut. If the replacement outer tie rod end has a grease fitting, screw it on and tighten it gently with the appropriate open end hand wrench or socket. Grease fitting using grease gun until cup is full. Some new outer tie rod ends do not come with grease fittings and are sealed.
12. Replace tire and lug nuts. Tighten as tight as you can get the lug nuts. Raise vehicle high enough to remove jack stand. Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts in opposite sequence using a 1/2-inch drive adjustable torque wrench and appropriate-sized socket for the lug nuts to the proper torque specifications for that vehicle. If you need to replace the other side outer tie rod end, repeat the same procedure. When youre done, remove the wheel chock.

1. Open your Mercedes hood so you can access the belt. Be sure the engine is cool before operating.
2. Loosen every bolt in the series that binds the belt into place. Take special care to remember the pattern in which the fan belt is attached. This is the same pattern youll follow to route the new fan belt. Do not remove the bolts, simply loosen them so that the belt looses tension at each point.
3. Pull the belt out of each connection, making sure you leave it intact so that you can compare it to the new belt.
4. Stretch the old and new belts out completely with both hands. Compare the size of each belt to make sure the new belt will fit your Mercedes engine.
5. Route the belt along each pulley, following the pattern you took note of when loosening the tension. Press down with a free hand after connecting the belt to each pulley so that you continuously create tension in the belt.
6. Tighten the belt at each point along the pattern by turning the bolts hard to the right, which will hold the belt in place.
7. Clean your workplace and put away all tools. Discard of the old fan belt.

How to Change a Turn Signal Light on a BMW
1. Pop the hood on the car and use the flashlight to locate the four separate bolts that fasten the given light on the front of the car.
2. Loosen all four easily-seen bolts using the socket wrench and place bolts to the side taking care to remember which bolt goes where.
3. Once the bolts have been removed from the car, carefully yet firmly pull the entire lighting unit toward you. (The side marker light has a separate clip and you must apply slightly more pressure to that side of the light to get it loose from the vehicle.)
4. With the light pulled roughly six inches from the car, carefully loosen the bulb housing unit on the defective turn signal.
5. After removing the bulb, place the new bulb in the socket and gently turn slightly to the left while pushing down. This action will cause the bulb to slide down into the given slots on the housing unit.
6. After securing the bulb, make sure to turn your emergency lights on to see if the bulb is working.
7. If the bulb works, carefully slide the light back into place by applying an equal amount of pressure to the entire housing unit.
8. After the light has been slid firmly back into place, tighten the bolts back into their given grooves and close the hood.